| However the Brushcutter was developed (whether a flash of inspiration, or years of building on existing technology), the product is now one of the mainstays of the Outdoor Power Equipment Industry.
VIP founder Bill Vis attributes a large part of his success to the humble brushcutter. In the late 1970s Bill had just gone back into professional mowing when he saw his first brushcutter. Not that he knew what it was. Like many others, this strange looking engine-on-a-stick puzzled him. But once he saw what it could do he was sold! He immediately began offering his clients a brushcutter edging service for an extra $2.00. That was an immediate 20% increase in his income for an additional couple of minute’s work per job (and with no extra travelling time eating into it). When he began VIP Home Services a brushcutter was an immediate and essential part of every franchisee start-up kit.
However, when buying new equipment it is often difficult to determine which machine is going to be the most appropriate for you. In a labour intensive industry like contracting, careful selection of equipment can significantly reduce the time to perform an operation. As labour charges approach $1/min, a one minute saving means your quotation can be $1 lower or your profit $1 higher.
Below we discuss the key factors you should consider when making your decision. It is advisable that you consult your local OPE Specialist Dealer to assist you.
Harnesses (230w)
There are two main types of trimmer harness: Single shoulder sash harness & Deluxe Shoulder/back/hip harness.
The single harness simply runs diagonally from the left shoulder to the right hip, while a deluxe harness distributes a brushcutter’s weight across both shoulders, back and hips. The configuration of straps leaves the chest free for easier movement. They are generally padded as well. Back harnesses are designed for long-period or long-term users.
In both instances they should be adjusted so that the spring hook is about 10cm (4” – roughly a hand’s width) below the right hip. The hook should then be attached to the brushcutter’s carrying ring. This ring can be shifted up and down the shaft, as can the handles. Both should be adjusted so that the brushcutter is balanced so that the cutter just touches the ground. The handles should be positioned so that an operators’ elbows are slightly angled and wrists are straight.
When this has been achieved the operator’s arms will be solely concerned with directing the cutter head while the entire weight will be born by the strong back muscles.
Many operate a brushcutter without using a harness. While this may appear easier that putting on a harness, it means that the effort of supporting the brushcutter’s weight is far more demanding on the body. The result is unnecessary stress and potential injury to the back, shoulder and arms. In other words, being too lazy to put on a harness will mean (at best) far more tiring work and (at worst) leaves you exposed to serious injury. It really isn’t worth it.
Cutting Heads (200w)
Nearly all line trimmers and brushcutters come fitted with a nylon line unit of some sort. There are four families of line heads:
Fixed-Line Heads. As their name indicates, these do not hold additional line. You must use pre-cut lengths of line for replacements. This is how the original trimmer head worked. While this may appear as if it would be inefficient, some fixed line heads can facilitate very fast line changes.
Manual Heads. This type of line head requires that an operator stops the machine (turn it completely off) and manually pull or unwind the line that is wound inside the head.
Semi-Automatic Heads. These require the operator to tap the line head on the ground during operation when the throttle is engaged. The action causes the line to advance and feed out the guide holes in the spindle head. This is due to the creation of more sophisticated components that can withstand the high rotational forces. Tap-and-go (Semi Automatic) heads are the most popular type.
Automatic heads feed the line automatically during operation. Generally this is by sensing when the throttle reaches a certain engine speed. A brushcutter engine speed will naturally increase at full throttle as the load created by length of line decreases.
Nylon Line Types (330w)
Trimmer line diameters vary greatly and come in round-cut and edged varieties. There is much debate about which type and diameter cuts grass the best, with proprietary types being advocated by their manufacturers. Unfortunately, there is no definitive answer. Diameter plays an important role in how long most line tends to last. Typically, the thicker the diameter, the longer lasting the line. Diameters range from under 1.00mm to 3.00mm. You should refer to the owner's manual to know what size of nylon line will fit inside the trimmer's head and is best suited to the model being operated.
The correct diameter, weight and length of line should always be used, to achieve optimum performance. If the line is too heavy, then engine overloading will occur. This drastically reduces the speed of the head and the line can then become entangled in vegetation and the chance of the clutch shoes burning out is greatly increased. The quality of cut will also deteriorate.
As with many things, when buying nylon line it is advisable to err on the side of quality, rather than price. Cheaper lines will generally wear more quickly than higher-quality alternatives. Any savings can be offset by losses incurred through the more rapid consumption and head refilling downtime.
Different types of line can be manufactured from widely differing nylon qualities. Different shapes appear to cut with different efficiency and generate different levels of noise emission. Some edged lines do not feed well in automatic-feed heads. Other types of string may "float" erratically while spinning, resulting in an uneven cut. Some string may cut extremely well, but also wear more quickly.
Brushcutter and line trimmers are now the fifth leading cause of “penetrating eye injuries”. Operating at speeds up to 8000 rpm, the trimmers may throw off tiny fragments of nylon, which can enter the eye along with dirt and grass debris, causing corneal lacerations and fungal infections severe enough to threaten sight. This is why operators should always wear appropriate personal protection equipment (PPE) including eye-safety goggles/glasses.
Blades (330w)
Straight-shaft units generally come with at least one blade. These are generally metal but may often be made of polymer. The polymer blades are best used for thinning and working on larger grass areas, where their greater durability will save time and effort constantly changing/feeding new line. The same applies to two- or four-blade edge metal blades, which also come into their own the stronger the weed stems being cut. A blade with eight cutters is ideal for taking down dead, dried weeds and rushes, whilst a shredder/brush “Triangle” type is for working on areas of tangled grass and undergrowth. Multi-tooth circular saw-type blades are best suited were bushes, saplings and trees are predominant. These are available in scratcher-tooth and chisel-tooth configurations.
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It is important to remember that changing blades can also mean altering cutter guard. Also, there is a definite area of a multi-tooth circular saw blade to use. As the blade rotates anticlockwise, you can only cut right-to-left; and that with the “cutting zone”, which is the top left hand quadrant of the blade (ie from blade top to 90 degrees left). That's it. Hit a stiff stem with any other part of the blade and you'll have to deal with kickback.
In rugged areas, particularly those with steep slopes or dense undergrowth, a low-kick cutter is the best choice. These blades have an expanded cutting zone that eliminates the need to focus on the safe cutting quadrant. It allows an operator to use the brushcutter in many directions, which is particularly helpful in confined situations.
Keep a constant eye on blade sharpness. In the end, it is the blade that is doing the cutting – not the engine. Cutting with a blunt blade is hard work for the engine, hard work for the operator and can be a safety hazard. A few strokes with a flat file should keep it sharp. As with sharpening chainsaw chain a few strokes regularly is better than infrequent major sharpening. Many pros never start their brushcutter up without giving each cutting edge two strokes with a file.
Finally, you are using a brushcutter not a scythe so don’t use it like a scythe. Feed the blade in at a pace where it can cut without binding, pinching or “smoking” (when cutting timber).
Backpacks (60w)
Brushcutters are usually handheld units, but some manufacturers also offer backpack models. These are designed for working on steep slopes, ditches and embankments. The engine is carried on the back, like a rucksack and there is a flexible drive between the power unit and shaft. They reduce operator fatigue and make it easier when working over difficult terrain.
Edging (140w)
While the linetrimmer’s inventors apparently saw the tool as a means of cutting close to trees and other solid obstacles, VIP founder Bill Vis immediately saw the brushcutter as an efficient edging tool. There had been dedicated edgers available previously, but they had tended to be heavy and cumbersome. A brushcutter simply needed to be held vertically and could edge a whole lawn in a few minutes.
Some companies have developed brushcutter-based dedicated edgers in their range. They are basically a rotary blade, mounted vertically rather than horizontally, at the end of the shaft where the linehead/blade normally would normally have been. There is some form of guide, with a depth control, that runs along the edge.
Since then Sydney manufacturer Atom has produced its award-winning range of dedicated edgers that combines the control and performance of a dedicated edger with the fast manoeuvrability of a brushcutter.
Multi Tools (60w)
Many suppliers now offer modular “multi-tools” which are based on the brushcutter concept. The engine/shaft/tool configuration remains basically the same, but the shaft is split half-way so that different attachments can be fitted. Many offer half-a-dozen such as: Edgers, hedgetrimmers, reach hedgetrimmers, pole-pruners, aerators, de-thatchers, sweepers, tillers and blowers.
These units have become increasingly popular with both domestic and commercial consumers as they need only invest in a single powerhead to enjoy the convenience of several tools. Many contractors keep one, or two brushcutters and a multi-tool with the attachments required to perform all other less common jobs.
Safety (200w)
Occupational Health and Safety is a phrase that is becoming ingrained into our minds. Like it or not, whatever we do, or oversee others doing) has got to be safe. Not “safe: according to our estimations, but “safe” according to the rigorous tests of Workplace law. Thus all operatives should have an “induction” that includes reading and demonstrating a comprehension of the operator’s manual with its safety and operating instructions.
The machine should be checked to ensure that it is in perfect working order and all guards are correctly in place before starting.
The area to be cut should be inspected beforehand. Rocks and wire — barbed wire in particular — can cause problems if your blade hits them. So be alert to conditions in your work area.
A safe workzone of a minimum 15m radius (preferably 20m) from the brushcutter should be established and maintained at all times. Nobody aside from the operator should be within this zone. Most brushcutter accidents involve bystanders that move too close. Brushcutters are the fifth leading cause of eye injury.
Wear appropriate Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
Goggles
Face Mask
Safety helmet
Ear Muffs
Gloves
Safety Boots
Robust trousers/chaps
Long-sleeved shirt (preferably High-visibility & UV resistant)
Anklets
Maintenance (180w)
Even domestic consumers often work their units in pretty harsh conditions that accelerate wear and tear. Contractor/Council use is even more demanding. Like most equipment, if you want a brushcutter to last, regular service is key.
Air filters must be cleaned regularly. All debris must be kept clear of the air intake, engine cooling fins and exhaust muffler. Change the spark plug whenever you change air filter.
Ensure that the fuel/oil mix ratio (where appropriate) is correct.
Whenever storing fuel for longer than about a month, use a fuel stabiliser. Fuel issues are a common source of problems that are incorrectly attributed to the small engine (See: PEA June 2005; Petrol & Oil Part II).
Fuel, fuel filters and fuel lines must be kept clean
New-generation low-emission engines meeting US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and California Air Resources Board (CARB) emission levels, run hotter, use leaner mixtures, have tighter tolerances and allow a smaller margin of tuning error than older units. Therefore with newer brushcutters it has become even more important to observe recommended service intervals and to use correct settings.
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